R+D CSIC

More sustainable cosmetic products composed only of bioactive ingredients

The CSIC and the spin-off Bioinicia develop new products based on a new technology, already patented, that allows compounds to be encapsulated in ultra-fine fibres that melt on contact with the skin. It is based on an electro-hydrodynamic processing that increases the penetration of the active ingredients by more than ten times.

The Spanish National Research Council (CSIC) and its spin-off, Bioinicia, have patented a technology that makes it possible to create cosmetic products composed entirely of bioactive ingredients.

The technology, which has been successfully tested in in vivo trials, allows ingredients to be encapsulated in ultra-fine, water-soluble fibres, also composed of cosmetic bioactives. This, in turn, avoids the need for all the excipients, preservatives, and additives found in conventional cosmetics, while maximizing the penetration and effectiveness of the bioactive ingredients. The first products developed with this technology will reach the market in 2024.

Based on these results, Bioinicia, through their brand Bioinicia Cosmetics, have developed a new line of totally natural and vegan cosmetic products for the care and improvement of skin health. “They are composed only of bioactive ingredients, creating a new generation of cosmetics, pure cosmetics,” says José María Lagarón, CSIC researcher at the Instituto de Agroquímica y Tecnología de Alimentos (IATA) and founder of Bioinicia.

The technology is based on electro-hydrodynamic processing with a Fiber Boost technical effect, which increases the penetration of the active ingredients by more than ten times. These fibers are 100 times thinner than the thickness of a human hair and melt instantly upon contact with the skin, providing a clearly noticeable cosmetic effect within just three seconds of application.

The technology is based on electro-hydrodynamic processing with a Fiber Boost technical effect, which increases the penetration of the active ingredients by more than ten times.

“This double mechanism of action is the key,” says José María Lagarón. “The ultra-fine fibres adhere and adapt perfectly to the skin surface and deliver the active ingredients in a more homogeneous and effective way. In fact, we have measured that some bioactives penetrate up to 10 times more than in conventional liquid formulations,” he explains. “In addition, the active ingredients are protected within the fibres, keeping all their properties intact and maximizing their effectiveness,” he points out.

Triple achievement of sustainability in cosmetics

The technology, which has undergone dermatological testing even on sensitive skin, also enables the elimination of all excipients, preservatives, and additives that structure and stabilize conventional cosmetics. Lagarón highlights, 'This represents a triple sustainability achievement in the cosmetic field.'

The new technology reduces the unnecessary consumption and transportation of raw materials and substances without cosmetic properties for the skin. Additionally, it doesn’t require to add water in the product, a natural resource that typically constitutes 60 to 95% of conventional cosmetics. Furthermore, it reduces the energy consumption required for production, as the technology enables manufacturing at room temperature.

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